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Caravan Diaries: Pt IV

Christmas in Punakaiki

Having an accidental day in Westport had its advantages. I could stock up for Christmas in the supermarket. I could buy hardware to make repairs to my caravan (window flapping open) in Mitre 10, then go back to buy Christmas lights with which to adorn the caravan. Most importantly, I could visit what is probably the best cafe on the West Coast - Westport is sadly depleted in terms of cafes, but the Bayhouse at Tauranga Bay is still going strong. After a quick look at Carter's Beach
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I made my way there and had my first taste of Punakaiki Pilsner, which is made in Westport and has apparently won awards, although I have not been able to identify which one(s) - my source at the Punakaiki pub could only say it was something to do with a wine and food thing. It is very tasty, with a touch more hop than the traditional pilsner. I couldn't just drink beer, so also had a chowder, as I (correctly) thought they'd know their way around seafood.
large_IMG_2943.jpglarge_IMG_2945.jpgBayhouse Cafe

Bayhouse Cafe

Tauranga Bay

Tauranga Bay

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Another cafe worth knowing about in this area is the one at Charleston, about 25 km south of Westport, which is attached to the Adventure Underground Tours - I was in here 3 or 4 times as I drove up and down this stretch of road: it is in a cool building.
Underworld Adventures Cafe

Underworld Adventures Cafe

I spent Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and quite a bit of Boxing Day in Punakaiki, without much of a plan. I looked at the beach behind the camping ground, several times.
Punakaiki Beach

Punakaiki Beach

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I have decided that living one's life according to a few rules helps provide shape and certainty to life and came up with one rule for living while in Punakaiki: every time in my life that circumstance takes me through Punakaiki, I am to stop in at the pub and have a Punakaiki pilsner (you have to start somewhere when setting up rules for life). It is a good, casual pub, right beside the camping ground, so I popped in each day I was there.

Of course, I went down to look at the Pancake Rocks - this was on Christmas Day. The cafe there was open, but its prices are high and augmented by a holiday surcharge, so I just had a coffee while I enjoyed access to cellphone coverage and went for a wander on the rocks.
Pancake Rocks @ Punakaiki

Pancake Rocks @ Punakaiki

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I didn't feel very Christmassy or energetic, so spent the day reading Michel Houellebecq's Submission and watching The Bridge. I took a late afternoon walk around the camp and its environs before droving up to Bullock Creek. It was dry and very stony - I tried driving along the creek bed a bit, but the stones became too big for comfort. Christmas dinner was not much - chips in the pub followed by a toasted sandwich (it did have ham in it, as a nod to the Christmas tradition). One thing I noticed about the camp was that although it was very busy, all but about three hardy souls in caravans were in campervans.
large_IMG_2975.jpglarge_IMG_2952.jpgBullock Creek

Bullock Creek

Next day, I was feeling like doing more - I'd walked about 7 km before I'd even had a cup of tea. This was a walk up the Porarari River. It has a well formed track which takes you in to Cave Creek (it also loops around and ends up at the Pancake Rocks). There were a few people out walking and a couple of runners but very peaceful - the main interruption was from people talking to each other in canoes on the river. For the most part, they were obscured by bushes, but when I did get to see people canoeing, I started to think it looked so peaceful on the water that I wouldn't mind having a go. One day.
Porarari River

Porarari River

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The track comes out into an area where the trees have been felled but there has been regrowth so it looks kind of chaotic, in a good way. The swing bridge takes you to the Bullock Track Creek, so I expect you could walk out that way as well. I was quite happy to retrace my steps, have a quiet beer and some lunch, then hit the road.
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The coast between Greymouth and Westport is pretty spectacular - but better is to come!
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I never did get my Christmas lights on my caravan.

Posted by NZBarry 02:38 Archived in New Zealand

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